It’s officially September 11 now here in Australia. My love goes out to everyone in the USA.
Six years ago … travelling Amtrak solo from Chicago to Las Vegas, New Mexico.
Woken up by sun pouring in the window, viewing the gorgeous stark flat countryside and rubbing myself all over because I had to try and sleep in the seats.
Go on down to the smoking carriage at around 8am. All the usual suspects are there. The great thing about being a smoker and travelling by Amtrak is the people you get to meet (although I’m very glad that I’m no longer a smoker). An elderly gentelman, who is very verbose and annoying the crap out of everyone. He had a brain injury. The black woman I was sitting next to, who was very admiring of my ability to be patient with the old guy, whispering “no wonder you do the job you do”. She was gorgeous. Had a great conversation with her about racism in the Eastern states (I think in particular Philadelphia) as opposed to racism in LA. The young couple who couldn’t keep their hands off each other, and who berated the old guy for calling Asians “orientals” (“One of my best friends adopted an oriental girl, and she is SMART!!!” he stated, amongst a lot of other rather dubious comments – I don’t know whether he was surprised by the fact that the girl was smart, or the remark was a confirmation of a ‘all black men have big dicks and can dance’ sort of generalisation). The guy with the black and blue and broken face, who managed to somehow get it on with the woman who was asking everyone for advice about following the scumbag she loved down south. The girl with the southern accent and the big hair and the chewing gum cud who let us know how “all them Jerry Springer shows are shit … it’s all a big set up. I know cuz my cousin went on there”.
Get told by the yummy black porter that the Pentagon has been blown up. “Nah, it’s some kind of joke. That can’t happen. No-one can blow up the Pentagon. It’s the PENTAGON for God’s sake!”. No no no, he assured me, it’s true. Then he told me about the World Trade Centre. Went back up to my smoke-free seat to plug my ears up with my walkman and stare out at the countryside passing by, disturbed. The train stops.
We are at La Junta, Colorado. Looks like a one-stop light town (which, lets face it, is one more stop-light than we have where I live). We all end up inside the waiting room at the station, where, incredibly, there is a television. We watch the planes flying into the twin towers. Over and over again. There are line ups for the pay phones. I panic. I line up to call the Australian Embassy (embarrassed chuckle – I guess that was kind of a Spalding Gray moment). I tell the two Japanese girls in front of me they might want to do the same. The Turkish guy who’s chatting them up looks at me in disgust and asks me “why would they want to do that?” I want to know how I am going to get home to Australia. What should I do. I want OUT. I also need to call Susan, my friend in New Mexico to say “hey, I might be a little late here, hours, days, I dunno”. Apparently they are checking all of the train tracks in the whole bloody country and we weren’t allowed to move on until that is done.
I see two things that devastate me. First, a young girl with a baby in a pram. She is crying her eyes out, absolutely distraught. I ask one of the other smokers what her story is. “She’s in the army reserves. She only just got custody of her little girl and now she is probably going to be called up”. Then I am standing on the platform, talking with the lovely elderly couple I had dinner with in the dining car the night before, and a guy who has hot footed it over to the station to hand out “I Love La Junta” badges. Gotta love opportunism. He turns out to be a journalist. The elderly couple turn away, arms around each other. The look of grief on their faces is so very very sad. The badge-toting guy says “that’s the face of America you see right there”. OUCH. That really hurt me. My heart ached for America and everyone in it.
Four hours later we did get moving, although the rest of the journey was taken at snails pace (I am not kidding) and late that afternoon I finally get off the train at Las Vegas New Mexico. Once I am back at Susan’s it’s hurried phone calls to Australia to let everyone know I was okay, and online to chat with friends in the US who were worried.
They’re my memories. My one trip to the US… what a historic one.
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Currently reading :
Astral Dynamics: A New Approach to Out-of-Body Experiences
By Robert Bruce
Release date: November, 1999 |
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